Tuesday, May 29, 2012

29 May - We made it to MACKAY

Phew!  What an interesting few days we have had.  We have sailed over 1000 nautical miles!!

Great sail from Yeppoon to Cape and Port Clinton.  We didn't realise that it was taking us into a communication black hole.  So no phone messages etc from Friday until today Tuesday  - 10 nm from Mackay suddenly our phones were going off.

We were working up the coast, Mainsail and Headsail out and it was pretty gusty.  A squall came through which made sailing interesting and Ian was debating whether to bring in the Headsail (we are getting a furler, not much fun out playing with headsails in rough or raining weather), however he stuck it out for about five more minutes.  Getting 8, 9 and 10 knots.  So we were flying.  Round the corner changed course and away she went beautifully and more comfortable for us.

Our neighbours, Terry and Eileen and Zac the wonderful ship's cat,  from the Yeppoon Marina, heard us logging off with the Coast Guard at Cape Clinton and called up to say, wow that was a quick ride. 

PORT CLINTON is amazing - huge, isolated.  The Army own it for exercises, so they put out Mariners' Notices now and then to say the public cannot be there.  So if you are planning on visiting, they have banned you for two weeks from 11 June.  :) Jo Beionki Peterson wanted it named after him and he was going to let Lang Hancock mine it.

We have been travelling about 35 to 45 nm a day lately - enough to move us on but not too exhausting.  Often arrive about 2-3 pm when we can relax and fish or sleep.

The coastal scenery all the way up here is outstanding.  Islands and rocks everywhere, so you have to keep your wits about you.   Range after range of mountains moving into the misty distances.

The tides are TEN FEET - wow, we have to be very fastidious in working out the tides and travelling at the right time.  Also anchoring has been a problem as you don't want to anchor in a hole and end up on a shelf. 

Ian has worked out the anchoring well now.  We follow the Chart Plotter and the Depth Sounder - then he does a complete circle. He plops the anchor in the center with up to 120 feet of chain!!  Then when we are obsessive (well really that should say scared, worried, anxious) through the night, we  pop up and look on the Chart Plotter and see that our tracks are staying within the circle and we feel a lot more confident knowing that we haven't moved.

ISLAND HEAD CREEK - not too far from Port Clinton - 26 nm.  Good job too, it poured with rain and we were worried as we approached the entrance to the creek (read large river) as visibility was low.  Ok, it cleared for about 20 minutes and in we popped, following Alan Lucas and the chart plotter as lots of sand banks.

Beautiful - fantastic country.  But we got a nasty afternoon with storms and rain, we were ok.  Just listening to the Coast Guard as a catarmaran had left Port Clinton with us in the morning heading South West for North Keppel Island.  Bad choice in this weather.  Well the news forecasts did say the rain and wind change was coming late Fri, not lunchtime Fri.    They called in very worried at about 4 pm and they were only doing 4 knots in very heavy weather, up to 47 k wind speed.  Poor things, they must have been terrified.  I really felt for them.

As Saturday was forecast to rain, we stayed put, the storm disappeared at about 8-9 pm Friday night.    So we had a really nice night, quiet and good sleep.

We went for a Saturday afternoon drive.

We did - drove around the creek and found Kooee holed up where we would love to have been if only we were a centre boarder!  Kooee is owned by Jill Knight who writes a lot of sailing articles.  So we took a photo of Kooee and Jill for you Dave Wilson :)

Sunday off an at 'em again.

It was so interesting, looked out the wide bar seeing all the yachts and cats taking off for their various destinations.  We had about 8 boats leaving, so sailed with a mono and two cats for a while.

We decided to go for Hunter Island in the Duke Isles, as it was about 36 nm, good distance without being too far.  Good sail, beautiful island. Sailed past lots of island.   Horrid night.  Wind gusts pouring around and swell rocking us.  I don't think Ian slept more than about 30 mins.  I kept telling myself that the boat wasn't my responsibility and to go to sleep, but of course my subconscious wouldn't allow me to do that, would it now and neither would my body.  It rock and rolled and then wham a huge swell, so your body changes position.  Not fun.


Curlew Island in the Guardfish group is beautiful, speckie in fact.  We sailed between two islands which Alan Lucas suggested.  Always feels as though we are doing something dangerous when we only have about 800 feet between islands.

Was like a little fiord!  Round the corner, great bay.  Did our usual circle and anchored.  I caught a fish!!  What type, you knows.  About 30 cm, long skinny, two sets of pectoral fins and a very fat head.  Scarey!!  And wasn't even Mel B.

Sometimes ugliness does save you.  He was too ugly to even think of eating, so we let him go!  If it was a him.

Pretty good night, gentle rolling but then about every half hour a bullet of fierce wind would shoot down the hills and swish us around.  Ian slept well, making up for the night before.  I found a Biggles book entertained me from about midnight to 3 am.  And it was about a yacht darn it. 

I have been reading a book Mavis and Warren gave us called - Attention All Shipping - A Journey Round the Shipping Forecast.  Irish writer, Charlie Connelly.  Very funny and about the history behind the weather forecasts, lighthouses and the English areas in the forecast.  Very interesting, but of course includes all the shipping disasters too!!

I think I had better find a book for read which isn't about shipping.

MACKAY - well we certainly had lots to keep us busy today.  Once we left Curlew Island, we spent 15 nautical miles avoiding shoules, rocks and islands.  At one stage, the depth sounder suddenly starting rising up, and here we were in the ocean, near an island, though and up came this very steep depth.  Not on the chart plotter or the GPS, so that was scarey.  Only 27 feet which isn't good.  We marked the position, so maybe we can get an underwater rock named after us.

Once we got past the sholes, then we travelled through 2.5 hours of huge ships waiting to load coal, just like Newcastle.    Was so windy, there was not coal being loaded and not much activity, other than us bouncing around and a helicopter visiting some of the ships.  Probably the mail run.

Hurrah, then the text messages started arriving, we were back in communication.

Our lovely English couple - who have been sailing around the world for 12 years, SMSed us to say they were in Mackay and would come to our pen and help us tie up - so we got out pen number from the Mackay Marina and Anthea and Derek helped us find it, by running down the floating jetties and then helped us tie up.

Nice to have a lovely, long hot shower, some clean clothes, meet a few people and stop a while.    Going to see Pat and Chris Frahm tomorrow night!!  Great.

We will sleep well tonight. 

Ian is staying in the marina for a week and will do some jobs on the boat while I fly back on 31 May to 13 June to see our new grandson, Euan Flynn and all our lovely family and friends. 





Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Photos and stuff

Emailing at sea - in my 'Twins with Ross' uniform - Ross and Jo would understand!  Being checked on by Ralph - Ian's Dad's Teddy Bear - orchestrated by Jan of course!
Chicken and Pasta Salad, the best thing about Morton Bay LOL

Sunrise at Southport - sailed all night and this greeted us with the full moon was just going down on our port side

Helming - not fun for Robyn especially with all the sails up

Surfers did look good from sea
Just popping some photos on here which I don't think I have attached anywhere yet - but you never know!!

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

23 May to 30 May - Plans

We are planning on moving on up to Cape Clinton on the 23rd May, then around the corner to Pearl Bay, probably won't stay there as it's only 4 nm from Cape Clinton.

Then onto Island Head Creek for a couple of days.

The Percy Iles look interesting, then onto Mackay.  Aiming for 29 and 30th.

I fly down south on 31st May to see our new grandson, and our friends and family.

22 May - Great Keppell Island to Yeppoon

Beautiful one day - perfect the next.  Stick to your promises Queensland.

Keppel Bay Marina was a lovely haven after the blustery sail from Great Keppell Island.  This headland is Yeppoon. 
Yesterday, in fact the last week or more, has been lovely weather.  Well things changed last night.  Rough, raining and blustery - so we had a wild fast sail into Yeppon to the Keppell Bay Marina.  It was only about 10 m to Yeppoon from Great Keppel Is.  So we left at 8 am and arrived in the Marina, after pulling down the headsail and attaching the buffers so we could pull into the marina pen.

The wind was blowing against us, so it was pretty hairy getting the windChalmer into the right place without ploughing into a flash cruiser. 

Most marinas have lots of live-in boaties. 

We noticed that it costs about $6000 a year to park your boat in a marina.  That works out to about $18 a day which is better than the $50 that they charge us.

At Bundaberg, there were quite a few cars parked near the pen where we were.  In the mornings couples went off to work. (Leaving the cat to fend for himself in the boat).   Some are sailing around Australia and live on the boat while they work in the towns.  

The main reason we came to Yeppoon (well I tell a lie, we did want to get out of the blustery conditions) today was to see our friend Kevin McKay and his wife Thelma.  Ian worked for him when we first moved to Sydney and then to Lake Macquarie.  He was a great mentor and we just love his zest for life.  He isn't well, but the spark is there.  He told us a joke he used to tell us on his farm in Uralla, which I thought was wonderful as he could remember it!!

So we were back to being urban dwellers today - riding around in a car, visiting the shopping centre for lunch and then stocking up the larder.

Ian said that I had an enormous amount of food on the boat when we left home - I said it was in case we ended up in South America.  The 10 kg of rice from Aldi might last a while LOL. 

The worst job while sailing is getting the washing done.  We can do this while in a Marina.  But we do have the washing machine bucket.  So stick the clothes in with the soap powder and it washes while we sail!!  We look like really cruisers as we have washing pegged to the rails!!  We do have very good pegs.

Ian is sound asleep.  I am nodding off.  Will be nice to get a good sleep.   This life sure is challenging.


21 May - Cape Capricorn to Great Keppel Island

Now, this is the type of sailing day which I really like.

Sail fast and comfortably for the morning.  Then anchor and play for the afternoon.  Wish they would place the anchorages in more evenly strategic positions up and down the coast.

Was a lovely sail today.  Poled out the headsail again and achieved an average or 7 knots. 

Interesting sail today - sailed amongst lots of islands and rocks

Great Keppel Island, the bay just before where we anchored.  Filled with boats from all over the world.

Great Keppell Island sunset

One of the isands, or was this a rock?
We anchored in the bay which Alan Lucas recommends and it was a lovely afternoon. 

Then things changed.  The swell and the wind got up and we rocked and rolled yet again for another night.  If it was only an even rock, it would be great.  It rocks nicely and you are nearly asleep, and wham bang you get a big rough roll.  So you settle and start again.  Ah well, we can sleep all day if we really want lol.

20 May - Pancake Creek to Cape Capricorn

Cape Capricorn - we anchored here.  Alan Lucas said it was a surprisingly good anchorage - well we rocked and rolled all night.  The wind roared down from the lighthouse - see next pic.

This photo is for Sophie and Gary - how do you like the position of this lighthouse?  Or have you already holidayed here.  See photo of the back of this Cape - tram up to the top.

Reckon the wind near this lighthouse would blow the toupee off anyone who didn't use superglue
Well, we didn't get to see much of Pancake Creek.  As we wend our way south in October or November we can see more of the areas we liked.

We anchored reasonably close to the mouth, so after our coffees and oat porridge - (I also make sandwiches the night before as if it is rough we can get something to eat without pulling everything out of the fridge or cupboard. )  Up the main and poled out the headsail, and off to achieve 47 miles.

We had a scare today, as a fishing boat was on a collision course with us and came far to close for comfort.

Gladstone outer harbour looks like Newcastle with all the ships being piloted in and out.  The Pilots are popped onto the ships by a very tiny helicopter.

Cape Capricorn looked great when we arrived at about 3 pm, however she soon demonstrated how things really were.  The wind whistled down from the cape - large mountain and the swell built up, so another rock and rolly night.

Poled out Headsail

Are we having fun yet?


Poled out and flying
We anchored right below this lighthouse - see the tram track going up the hill to take supplies?  These days no one lives here and a fast catamaran comes out to service the light.      






18 May - Bundaberg to Pancake Creek

So much for a quiet retired life.  Up early - our the Burnett River.  We always log on with the Volunteer Marine Rescue People, give them our position, POB (persons on board), heading and ETA.  They do keep an eye on us as they phone or try us on the radio if we haven't logged in by the ETA.  Great service.

eg
Heading 312 deg  POB 2   Position S 24 deg 39.650 mins    E 152 deg 23.843 mins

Get this off the Chart Plotter - best thing humankind ever invented.

We had 65 nautical miles planned for today.  So long day.  We sailed for 13 hours today.  You can't opt out half way through.

It isn't much fun coming into an anchorage in the dark, a creek or bay which you have never seen.  The chart plotter is amazing, however Ian doesn't like to put his whole trust in it.  He also uses the leads and looks out as well to check where we are going.

Pancake creek is filled with lots of sandbanks.  So we had to work carefully up the river and avoid other yachts until we decided to anchor.  Ian always wished he has built a centreboarder - much easier not to have to worry about depths as much. 

17 Thursday - Still in Bundaberg

Pilot Boat Sugar sheds Burnett River (Bundaberg)

Sugar Loading Base Bundaberg 
Well all the most well laid plans ... we are still in Bundaberg.  Had a small problem with the engine.  It took Ian most of the morning to find the problem.  We then phoned the Bundaberg Marina, attached ourselves to a wharf, obtained one stainless steel bolt, put it in and wullahha (well how do you spell that) it was fixed.


Thursday, May 17, 2012

Bundaberg, Pancake Creek, Cape Capricorn, Great Keppel Island, Yeppoon, -Cape Clinton then somewhere else and MacKay.

Well this is the plan

18 May -Bundaberg to Pancake Creek - 56 miles

17 May 2012 - we meet Kerry McGinnis Author

Anchorage Burnett River, 2nd night in Bundaberg

Other side of the River
Wow, this is a lovely Marina.  Set up beautifully.  I installed myself in the laundry early to get my second laptop battery charged.

Kerry turned up at about 9 am and we had a really lovely morning showing her the windChalmer and chatting about her life and her books.  She is such a character.  Very interesting and so intelligent, no wonder she did well with her studies and her books.  She has offered to take us around Bundaberg when we are on our way back - very kind and generous, so hope we can do that. 

If you haven't read her books you are really missing out on a treat.  Pieces of Blue and Heart Country plus two others.

When I met my cousins in Southport, Fay asked if I was catching up with anyone as we sailed north.  I mentioned that we were hoping to meet Kerry McGinnis - she got so animated, as she had read her books and tried to contact her.  Amazing small world.

We are planing on sailing to Pancake Creek, Friday.  Near Gladstone.

Then to Cape Capricorn.

Then to Yeppoon where we hope to meet our friend and mentor Kevin McKay.  He is 80 years old now.  Is traveling up with his partner in a caravan.

Currently anchored in Burnett River just out of Bundaberg. 




16 May 2012 - Big Woody Island (Fraser) to Bundaberg

Wow, what a magic day.

The forecast finally came true - southerly.  We did over 6.5 knots average and even got up to 10 K.  First time windChalmer has got up to that speed.

The miles just flew past and we were entering the Burnett River at Bundaberg at 1400 hours.  Great.

Saw a poor little lorikeet which looked like he was lost.  Told him to take a ride with us but he flapped on madly.  Ian saw a huge turtle - at least 4 feet across the back.

Bundaberg Marina:  When we stopped at the marina to get fuel and water she mentioned that we would be charged 10 c a litre less and no charge for water if we stayed in a pen.  It worked out to be $12 for a pen for the night with discounts for petrol and water!!

Best decision, so we showered, charged the laptop, did washing including sheets, which is the hardest job while sailing.  You don't want to wash clothes at sea as you may run out of fresh water.

I emailed Kerry McGinnis the author of Pieces of Blue and Heart Country as soon as we got in and 20 minutes later she rang and said she would love to meet us.  Fantastic.

We then decided that we had better do some shopping.  IGA (down the road, 10 mins away had a courtesy bus), so we rang them to find they couldn't run a bus after 5 pm due to staff shortages.

Off we went walking after phoning for directions.  10 mins my hat!!  We were out in the boondocks, dark as dark with some lights way down the way.  Phoned IGA again and kept going - then a car turned up, it was the manager, was sorry for us and came to get us!!

Took our six bags of shopping into the pub, as they told us if we had a drink there they were take us home.  By then we decided that a pub meal looked inviting, so we ordered and then ate fast as the next bus left at 8 pm.  Rats, someone else from the Bundaberg Marina then turned up, so they told us they would take us all home together.  I played games on my phone and tried to get Ian to get into it, as he was falling asleep in his chair!!

Great Sandy Straits - Freighter Wreck
Finally got back to windChalmer by 9 pm and fell into bed.  Very quiet lovely marina.

15 May Tuesday - Great Sandy Straits

Well is name is no misnomer.  Sand banks everywhere.  Thank goodness for the chart plotter and depth sounder.

We slide into a sand bank at one stage.  I always remember what one of Ian's teachers on the Coxswain's Course told him.  Never worry about running aground, just worry about getting off :)  Had to wait two hours for the tide to change.  So we fished - got a tiny flounder, but nothing else. 

So nice to relax, then we motored up to Big Woody Island near the mouth ready for our trip to Bundaberg the next day. 

Will add photos if my battery lasts :)

14 May - Monday - Wide Bay Bar into Great Sandy Straits

We got up slow this morning.  Enjoyed the amazing view.  Looked out at the mighty sand cliffs and noticed the matchbox 4WD scurrying along like little ants.  Hard to believe we couldn't reach out and touch them.

The Voluntary Marine Rescue advised us to wait until high tide before we crossed the bar into the Great Sandy Straits (Fraser Island).  The Chart Plotter is so good, as it shows you exactly what waypoints to be on and you can just follow these on a safe path.

I wonder if this bar is the longest in Australia?  Anyone want to check this out?  Certainly took quite a while.

We motored up the straits for a couple of hours and then anchored and were sound asleep by 7.30 pm.  Well, Ian was.  I stayed up and knitted for quite a while.

Note to my KNITTING CLUB friends:  knitted has been fantastic.  Settles my mind onto something LOL.  When on watch I knit a row and then get up and check the horizon for lights and ships etc.  Oh yes, one of those PRINCESS cruise ships was floating around with us from about 10 pm to 2 am this morning, totally lit up like a Christmas tree.

12, 13 and 14 May - Southport to Frazer Island

Well our ETA for Fraser Island was estimated at 0800 the next Morning (Sunday).  We set out sailing beautifully but not as fast as we could wish.   Then we hit a southerly set, with a 2 knot current against us and as we were only doing 4 knots, we got no where.  The distinctive cone shape of Mt Warning - south of Gold Coast, finally disappeared off the horizon at about 1 pm. 

We have added another cape to our HATE list - Cape Morton - we tacked and tacked and tried and it would NOT  go away.  All night we worked to get past in very rough conditions.

Ian and I never mastered the rock and roll on the dance floor, but the windChalmer has sure worked on getting good at it. Morning always looks a lot better.  We kept a look out for ships all night.  At one point a fishing boat all lit up was on our bearing  but avoided us and then we saw some very odd lights - a red and white.  Couldn't work out what it was, so tucked in behind the fishing boat, figured that he knew where he was going.  Suddenly we figured that it was a huge container ship.  Red and white lights on the bow and then nothing for metres and meters and then a while light on the stern!!  Phew, the rest of him was totally dark.

So back to working on getting past Cape Morton. Sunday morning, winds still Northerly and at 40 k.   Calmer waters by daybreak.

3 pm Pilot Whales off Lookout Point North Stradbroke Island, they were fishing around us.  Can still see Cape Morton. Drat!!

SUNDAY 13  May - finally got rid of that rotten Cape Morton.  It disappeared over the southern horizon before we were abeam with Mooloolabar.
When you are disgusted with the world, then the dolphins appear and play around your bow for ages and do great big back flips in the water seemingly just to entertain you - about 4 pm.  Sunday.  Very calm conditions, slowly working up the cape.

10 pm hit by a southerly.  Then back to rock and rolling all night.  Ian had about 2 hours sleep altogether, I had about 4 because i felt bad if he was up and I was asleep.  He slept on the floor of the cockpit.  Only trouble was he would be sound asleep and then I would see ship lights and would follow them for ages - but if they got too close I wanted him to make a decision about them.

Lucky I made a mound of sandwiches before we left, so we had something to eat.  If I didn't eat rice cakes or something I started to feel a little queasy for the first time on the trip.  

  Only trouble with sailing, once you are on the boat, there is no going back.

Luckily, I was told by a very wise man (yes, thank you Alan Wise) that you were just a cork bobbing on the ocean.  So kept saying, am just a cork bobbing on the ocean.

CHART PLOTTER - this is just the most beautiful thing.  Can see exactly where you are and how long you should take to get there.  Was so good as we got closer to Double Island Bay in Wide Bay Bar just off Frazer Island.  Finally got into the bay where Alan Lucas (thanks so much Wilson Family for giving us Alan's book - just wonderful reading up what to do and where to go) said should be a good place to park.

As we got more into the Bay, we both kept saying, is it less rough?  Yes, it was, yes it was.  Just like when you have been driving on Cape York forever on a rutted road and suddenly get onto the bitumen.  Quiet, no sound amazing.

QUIET, QUIET, QUIET,  no rock n rolling.  Cannot believe it.  When the anchor had been dropped it was 4.30 am on the Monday morning.  I looked out and there was this whopping big sand cliffs, looked like we were practically sitting on them.

We went off straight to sleep - after sailing from 6 am Sat to 4.30 am Monday!!

Nearly a day longer than we had estimated.


Thursday, May 10, 2012

10 May - Photos

Sailing along

Hastings at Port Macquarie

Ian working on some steaming light problem.  Fixed

Warren helming, he and I found this very challenging in the heavy weather
Have to be quick as my battery is nearly out.  This is from Bums Bay in Southport - love being an official bum LOL.

Sailed all night, Iluka  to Southport, arrived about 7.30 am.  Great moonlit night, but winds fluky.  When are we going to charm some good steady 7 knot winds??

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

9 May 2012 - Iluka to Gold Coast Seaway

Hey
Am writing this aboard the windChalmer about 6 nautical miles south of Ballina.  Getting good internet connections at sea.  One day I connected to an unsecured wireless connnection and think it could have been a ship :)  Good speed.

Again, we have had very light winds - so averaged about 4 k for the first two hours while sailing, then when we dropped to 1 or 2 k we kicked the engine over.  So motor sailing yet again.  I know our lovely friend Gary who lives in QLD and sailed everywhere said he motor sailed on the NSW coast more than anywhere else.

A very large dophin - about 10-12 feet followed us for quite a while, must have been old as he was pretty scared.  Saw a few other, and a very large school of fish.  A few fishing boats out today in the calm waters (like Lake Macquarie).  While Ian had a sleep - a saw something odd in the water - junk?  whale?  right on our bearing, so altered course and a very large tree trunk went by.  Must be one from the floods in Ballina maybe?  The stories it could tell eh?

Oh yes, we got buzzed by an airforce F1 18 this morning.  Larikin who needed something to do LOL.  No was lovely.  Reminded me of my brother and what he got up to in the airforce.  

We are going to sail through the night tonight.  Past Byron Bay - should go past that in the early evening.  Full Moon by about 9 pm and then work our way up the Gold Coast.

So the next blog should be from the Gold Coast hopefully.  :)

Our first overnight sail was lovely.  Beautiful moonlit night and reasonable winds.  As we came towards Southport the sunrise on port side was vying with a huge moon on the starboard side.  Despite the concrete jungle, Southport did look good with the rise reflecting on the high rise glass.

Meet up with my cousins, Shirley, Trevor and Faye and also friend from school days Brian Dodds and his wife Jan.  They own a cat - Another Angel - and work in Vanuatu Islands delivering medical staff and supplies to very isolated and disadvanted people.  Great work Brian and Jan.  

Rob on watch, Ian sleeping

Another Angel - Medical Teams for Vanuatu

Robyn sporting her new air dried hairstyle with her cousins in Southport

Collecting the cousins

Robyn, Shirley and Faye
Also met another inspiring couple - Derek and Anthea who were in their yacht - they left England saying they were going sailing for 2 years - and that was 12 years ago.  Very inspirational couple.  Been everywhere.

8 May 2012 - layover in Iluka Tuesday I think :)

Yesterday:  Well, we had to ditch the top quality alternator and buy another one.  Bevan transported us around Iluka, we had lovely fresh fish and chips at the pub yesterday and then Bevan came out for dinner aboard the windChalmer.  We told him that we hoped he could cope with the riotous party life with us LOL.

Slept in today, then Ian  attached the new alternator and did all sorts of things like solder up wires to a globe for the charging of the batteries.  I held the solder iron - nothing like learning new skills at my age lol.  I cleaned and knitted etc and enjoyed the sun.  We popped into the fisherman's coop for a few things and they have the best fresh fish (the other one is the Newcastle Fish Coop), so we shared a fisherman's basket for lunch.  So fresh and tasty.

Ian has always wanted to learn how to collect beach worms, so Bevan picked us up at 3 pm and took us to the beach - most amazing lovely afternoon.  Camera was on the boat!  Yamba headland and lighthouse at one end of the boat and Iluka bluff at the other.  Was so lovely and relaxing.  Bevan cooked dinner for us and we boarded windChalmer early to do some packing up for the journey on Wed. 

Bevan has given me FIVE custard apples - yum.  Haven't had a decent one for years.  Great. 

Midnight - Ian chatted animatedly to me for about an hour until I gave him a couple of panadols and said, go to sleep.  Funny how you get wound up at times and the mind won't shut down. 

7 May 2012 - Iluka - wonderful anchorage here


7 May 2012
Am at my cousin Bevan’s home  in Iluka at the moment, plugged into his electricity while I charge my laptop batteries.  Our boat washing is going through his machine while he and Ian are out with an Auto Electrician, as the alternator on our boat which charges our power, lights etc is playing up.  So great to catch up with Bevan.  Haven’t seen him in years.   We had the best fish and chips here years ago when we had a holiday at Yamba and came over on a ferry to Iluka.  Ian did say we would park the pick in this harbor someday and here it is, our dreams are coming true.

Yesterday, was the most beautiful day at sea, but no wind.  So we motor sailed practically from Coffs following another yacht doing the same thing all day.  Apart from the whale and small hammerhead shark, a pod of dolphins escorted us into Iluka.  The entrance to Iluka, that is the Clarence River is supposed to be quite easy, however we got a large following wave or two and it was a little hairy.  We found the two red leads, but one petered out – just love our Garmin chart plotter, best electronic device on the boat.  We can see exactly where we are going and it gives us a line to follow into entrances.  We can work out how far we have come and what distance to go.  Also shows us how much water is under us.  Gives us our position, speed and heading in an instant.

On sunset, there was the most beautiful display of oranges, reds and pinks on our port side and an enormous full moon in a cobalt, metallic blue sky on starboard. 
Iluka is a yachtie’s heaven.  Quiet, calm and a nice little town to walk around.  Probably, not the best town if you live here, as you have to travel to Yamba or McClean for lots of services.  Bevan found a good auto electrician for Ian to check out the alternator.  Hope it isn’t too much of a problem.  But I don’t mind if we stay here for three nights.  If we get some decent weather, Ian and I might sail through the night to Southport once we leave here.

I cannot believe it, but I helmed for about two hours yesterday by myself up in the cockpit for one hour while Ian had a sleep.  It was like helming on Lake Macquarie, other than the bigger swells.  Am glad I did the messing around in water on Lake Macquarie as it has helped me get used to being on a boat, being the land blubber I am.  Getting used to helming in rough water with larger swells while Ian takes the sails in now. 

I went to school with a guy who is involved with taking Doctors and medical teams and supplies around the islands in Vanuatu.  Brian is current anchored in Southport up Bums Creek.  Hope we can say we anchored in Bums Creek – hehe.  Seeing we are bums now.  (or have we always been that?)  

Our Silverwater neighbours get back from Japan tomorrow.  I do want to travel Japan one day and would love to do it with Junko and Dave.  

I think that Bevan will come out and have dinner with us on the windChalmer tonight. 

Sunday, May 6, 2012

2 May to 6 May


2 May – Port Macquarie
We HATE, HATE, HATE  Port Tacking.  Very true to its name.  The Southerly set hit us and we tacked for a couple of hours before giving up and motor sailing into Port Macquarie.  The swell was quite small so made the entrance no problems and up into Hastings River to anchor just past the ferry, near an oyster farm.
Really lovely quiet anchorage, after the noisy one at Forster. (Just noisy from the cockle shells and tide chuckling all night).   So this was totally quiet other than someone’s dog waiting for its owner and once they were home at about 7 pm, it was bliss.   The dolphins came to visit us, chasing some fish around windChalmer.
3 May – Port Macquarie to Coffs Harbour – 70 nm
Yeah, at last we had one great day of sailing.  No tacking, poled out the headsail and sailed at 7 knots most of the day.  Quite smooth and very interesting coast.  Most miles we have done so far.  We decided to leave at 6 am, when we promptly ran out of fresh water.  Tried to get some in Port MacQ but the Iron Man was on the next day and thousands of swimmers were practicing right where we needed to go.  Finally got some at the Fisherman’s Wharf and then left at 8 am.
Consequently we were off Coffs Harbour in the dark, getting in the sails ready to motor sail into the harbor.  We anchored in the harbor.  Next time we would just go into the Marina and tie up somewhere as we rocked and rolled all night even worse than Shoal Bay at Port Stephens.  I ended up sleeping on the lounge as it was more comfortable, than having head up one min and then feet up.  Anyway, Ian and I got up about twice each to check that we weren’t dragging, however we stayed fast.
Popped into the marina next morning and booked a berth for $50, including water,long hot showers and electricity.  Pity we forget to bring the electricity leads or I could have recharged my laptop batteries.  First time that windChalmer has been in a pen.
We said our reluctant goodbyes to our precious third crew member, Warren.  He caught a bus to visit his friend up north.  Pity the winds hadn’t been better so we could have sailed him there.  He had been with us from Wed, ANZAC DAY until Sat 6 May and had only intended coming for a week.
Ian worked most of the morning trying to solve a power problem.  Something wrong with an alternator.  Will get it checked at Iluka.     I cleaned, sorted, read, knitted and sat in the sun.  After lunch and a great long shower, we walked up to town did  some shopping.  Unfortunately my school friend Karrel and her husband Max are away on holidays.   Coffs is a great layover with lots to do.  Ian and I really enjoyed a good long walk.
6 May 2012
Up at 5.15 and gone out the Coffs Heads by 6 am.  Unfortunately we have lost our good winds again.  Very fickle and blowing SE and then SW.  By 11 am we have poled out the headsail twice and taken it down twice.  Motor sailing past the last of the Solitary Islands.
A young hammerhead shark came cruising along at about 11 am.  We have seen at least 4 of them now.
Hopefully, we will get to Iluka tonight and see my cousin Bevan tomorrow.

BEST BEST NEWS - our new Grandson, Euan arrived at 2.56 am this morning.  49 cm and 6 lb 12 oz.  Good, easy labour.  All well and we are overwhelmingly excited.  Wish we were there.

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

2 May 2012 - Camden Haven to north, maybe even Coffs Harbour

Hello everyone
Here I am sitting in bed in the captain's cabin beam of Port Macquarie writing this up.  We left at 5.45 am this morning as it is about 50 nautical miles to Trial Bay.  We can't seem to get a good wind.  It is lovely and relaxing just rock n rolling along at 3-4 knots but will take forever to get to QLD.  Ian thinks we will do an overnight sail tonight, as its moonlight and light winds and may not scare his novice crew too much.

I have been back in bed, after getting up to see us over the Camden Bar and take some photos of the sunrise.  Been reading Colin Thiele's book - Sun on the Stubble.  Good romp back into the past.  Colin came to Craigmore High School when I was teaching there and gave a talk to our students.  He was very inspiring, it was just as his Storm Boy was being made into a movie.

We had a great day yesterday.  Stayed in Camden Haven while Warren caught up with his half brother Ray.  I knitted, cleaned, cooked, fished and generally relaxed.  Young Sebastian may get his cardigan before winter and hopefully it won't be miles too big like the one I made for Hamish.  Hamish will probably wear it when he is five!

The guys are enjoying pottering around doing a few jobs here and there and watching the world go by. 

Its lovely sailing up the coast and watching the headlands move past.  The chart plotter is magic.  You can see where we are and work out how far to the next headland plus 100's of other features.  Not fun when you are in really rough weather as you watch the boat being turned this way and that. 

Hope you have a happy day rocking ' rolling too.

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Hi there, am sitting in the Serviceman's Club recharging the batteries on the laptop while Warren chats to his brother and wife.

We sailed out of Forster at 8.30 yesterday morning, bound for Camden Haven - 9 hours if we did 4 knots on average.  Haven't had one day of good wind yet.  We are supposed to charm the wind aren't we?  Winds were not kind to us again, so had to work hard and had a very rolly day all the way up.  Finally motor sailed for the last four hours to get into Camden Haven right on sunset.  The bar was tricky with breaking surf, the captain made Warren and I hang on tight.  We had our life jackets on all day and Warren and Ian wore tethers every time they ventured out of the cockpit to adjust the sails.

I even made coffee twice yesterday as we sailed.  Jammed myself into the galley.  Jammed the coffee mugs between the fruit bowl in the sink and managed to get a few full cups with only spilling some of one. Haven't felt slightly sick or oomy which is amazing.

Captain enjoying breakfast

Looking up the river at Camden Haven
We chatted to another yacht next to us who is from Hervey Bay.  They spent the whole of last year in Lake Macquarie and now after doing a few jobs on their yacht here will sail straight up to Hervey Bay.

We should be on our way to Trial Bay or further north tomorrow.  Early start.   Lovely here on the river though, best sleep with no cockles or tide chatting to us all night.   One of the best anchorages yet.